Chocolate and churros: the star
Madrid-style chocolate is thick, almost a custard, and served with churros (fried sticks) or porras (larger and softer). You dip; you do not sip it from a cup like ordinary hot chocolate. It is a breakfast, an afternoon snack or a late-night stop.
The best-known address is the Chocolatería San Ginés, in the San Ginés passage near the Puerta del Sol, open since 1894. It is very touristy: come on a weekday morning, or take a short walk and return if the queue is long. Check the menu and prices on site. Many other neighbourhood bars and churrerías serve them too, often at a counter and without ceremony.
How to choose. Churros should be served hot, fried to order. A counter that keeps them in a heap for hours is a bad sign. Ask whether the portion is per piece or per dozen before ordering.
Seasonal pastries to know
- Rosquillas: small ring doughnuts, in "tontas" (plain) or "listas" (lemon-glazed) versions; they are tied to the San Isidro festival in May. See the San Isidro festivities.
- Torrijas: slices of bread soaked in milk or wine, fried and sweetened, associated with Lent and Holy Week.
- Bartolillos: small fried pastries filled with custard, a Madrid speciality.
- Roscón de Reyes: a ring-shaped brioche eaten in early January around Epiphany; see Christmas in Madrid.
- Pestiños, buñuelos: seasonal fritters, more typical of autumn (All Saints) and Christmas.
Specialities are seasonal: a bakery may not have torrijas in summer, or rosquillas in November. Ask what is "in season".
Ice cream: when and how to choose
Madrid's ice cream parlours are open mainly in spring and summer, with long evening hours. Look at the day's flavours, taste before choosing and prefer artisan ice cream ("helado artesano"): it shows in natural colours and a display without towering mounds of cream. Cones are fine to eat while walking, but do not take them into a museum.
Where to look for good places
- In the historic centre: the streets around the Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor concentrate tourist-oriented venues; compare two or three frontages before going in. Our guide where to eat near the Plaza Mayor gives pointers.
- In the markets: San Miguel and San Antón have pastry counters, to compare like everything else.
- In historic cafés: see Madrid's historic cafés for a sweet break in an old setting.
Practical tips
Ask about ingredients if you have allergies: many pastries contain gluten, eggs, milk and nuts. Check before ordering whether eating in costs more than takeaway, as at some terraces.
