The route at a glance
| Stop | On foot from the square | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Cuchilleros arch | 1 min | The most photographed staircase, down to the Cava de San Miguel |
| San Miguel market | 2 min | Covered iron-and-glass hall, tastings |
| Plaza de la Villa | 4 min | Former municipal heart, 17th-century buildings |
| Calle Mayor | 3 to 8 min | Historic axis linking the Puerta del Sol to the Royal Palace |
| Puerta del Sol | 5 min | Kilometre zero, clock, bear-and-strawberry-tree statue |
| Chocolatería San Ginés | 8 min | Chocolate and churros |
| La Latina and Cava Baja | 8 to 10 min | Tapas, bars, the Rastro market on Sundays |
On the square: getting your bearings
Start with a lap under the arcades to spot the nine exit arches. The tourist information centre in the Casa de la Panadería is useful for a map. All the details of the square are on the Plaza Mayor page.
Cuchilleros and the San Miguel market
Leave by the Cuchilleros arch in the south-west: the staircase leads down to calle de Cuchilleros, which holds old restaurants. A few steps on, the San Miguel market fills an iron-and-glass building. It is a tasting market, pleasant for a break but dearer than a neighbourhood bar; if you want an alternative, compare it with the San Antón market in the guide San Miguel or San Antón market.
Plaza de la Villa and the Calle Mayor
From San Miguel, the Plaza de la Villa is a four-minute walk. This small square is surrounded by 17th-century buildings; see its page. The Calle Mayor, which runs beside it, links the Puerta del Sol to the Royal Palace: follow it west and you reach the Plaza de Oriente (see around the Royal Palace).
Towards the Puerta del Sol
To the east, the Calle Mayor or calle de Postas brings you back in five minutes to the Puerta del Sol. Look for kilometre zero in front of the Real Casa de Correos and the bear and strawberry tree, the city's emblem. This is also where pickpockets concentrate: keep your bag closed in front of you (see scams and safety in Madrid).
Chocolate, then La Latina
For an afternoon snack, the Chocolatería San Ginés is eight minutes away. If you prefer a more food-focused evening, head down to La Latina and the Cava Baja for a tapas round. To eat on or around the square, read where to eat near the Plaza Mayor.
Variations
- Short (1 h): square, Cuchilleros arch, San Miguel, back along the Calle Mayor.
- Foodie (2 to 3 h): add Botoneras, San Ginés or the Cava Baja.
- History: continue with the guide to Habsburg Madrid and the San Isidro museum.
- Sunday morning: stamp market under the arcades, then the nearby Rastro.
When to go
Early in the morning the square is almost empty and the light flatters the façades. Late in the evening it is lit up but busy. In December the Christmas market adds crowds; see Christmas in Madrid.
