In short: which one?
Choose San Miguel if you are already in the historic centre and want to taste several bites standing up in a photogenic setting. Choose San Antón if you want a neighbourhood feel, fresh produce stalls as well as counters, and a rooftop terrace. If you only have time for one, take the one on your itinerary for the day rather than making a detour.
| San Miguel | San Antón | |
|---|---|---|
| Area | Historic centre, 2 minutes from Plaza Mayor | Chueca, Calle Augusto Figueroa |
| Atmosphere | Busy, tourist-oriented hall with tasting counters | Three-level neighbourhood market, more local |
| Fresh produce | Little for shopping: you come to graze | Fish, charcuterie, bakery and wine stalls on the ground floor |
| Terrace | No | Restaurant with rooftop terrace |
| Crowds | Very dense evenings and weekends | Calmer by day, lively at night |
| Hours | 10:00-00:00 (to 01:00 Friday, Saturday and eves of holidays) | Fresh Monday-Saturday 09:30-21:30; counters 12:00-00:00; rooftop 13:00-01:00 |
San Miguel: the historic-centre hall
San Miguel market is handy if you are visiting the Plaza Mayor or the Puerta del Sol: it is a few steps away. You build a tasting from more than twenty stands. Prices are displayed at each counter and are higher than in a traditional neighbourhood tapas bar; the setting and location are part of what you pay for.
Seats are scarce and the crowd dense. Come late morning on a weekday, before the Spanish lunch hour, or after 22:00 on weekdays. Keep your bag closed in the crush.
San Antón: the Chueca market
San Antón market reopened in 2011 in a new building. Its ground floor keeps real fresh produce stalls, the second level has tapas and takeaway counters, and the top floor houses a restaurant with a terrace. People come as neighbours as much as visitors, which changes the atmosphere.
The three levels keep different hours: the fresh stalls are closed on Sundays, and the rooftop restaurant opens later than the counters. The market leads naturally into a walk around Chueca and its shops.
Points to compare
Budget. Neither is a cheap option if you hop from counter to counter: adding up small plates and drinks quickly costs more than a planned meal. Set a limit before going in and see our budget guide.
Shopping for food. Only San Antón works for buying fresh produce. For a true neighbourhood market, also see San Fernando market in Lavapiés.
Dietary needs. At both, ask about ingredients at the counter: a market is a collection of traders, not one kitchen. See also our guide to eating vegetarian in Madrid.
Both in the same day?
It is possible: from the Plaza Mayor to Chueca, allow a 15 to 20 minute walk via the Puerta del Sol and the Gran Vía. Keep just one real meal, though: one market for the midday tasting, the other for an aperitif. For the overview, read our guide to Madrid's markets; for classic taverns and restaurants, where to eat in Madrid.
