La Latina

Updated on October 1, 2026

South of the Plaza Mayor, La Latina is one of Madrid's oldest neighbourhoods: most of its narrow, winding streets date back to the Middle Ages. It takes its name from Beatriz Galindo, known as "La Latina", a humanist and tutor to Queen Isabella the Catholic, who founded a hospital with her husband near Plaza de la Cebada. The square names recall the old markets: Cebada (barley), Paja (straw), Carros (carts). Today it is Madrid's tapas district. On Sundays, after the Rastro, the flea market next door, locals gather here for vermouth and "tapeo", hopping from bar to bar.

Highlights

Calle de la Cava Baja

This street runs from Plaza de Puerta Cerrada to Plaza del Humilladero, parallel to Cava Alta. Its old coaching inns have given way to tapas bars and traditional restaurants, including Casa Lucio, known for its "huevos rotos" (fried eggs over potatoes). It is the heart of tapas-hopping in La Latina.

Plaza de la Paja

This sloping square lined with terraces is flanked by the Capilla del Obispo, a 16th-century chapel attached to the church of San Andrés, one of Madrid's oldest parishes. From the bottom of the square, Carrera de San Francisco leads in a few minutes to the Basilica of San Francisco el Grande and its great dome.

Príncipe de Anglona Garden

On a corner of Plaza de la Paja, this small 678 m² garden once belonged to the palace of the same name. Laid out around 1750, it was redesigned in 1920 by the painter and garden designer Javier de Winthuysen, then restored in 2002. Brick paths, clipped box hedges and a rose pergola make it a quiet stop; entry is free, from 10am to 6:30pm in winter and until 10pm in summer.

Mercado de la Cebada

Opened in 1875, demolished in 1956 and rebuilt in 1958, the market on Plaza de la Cebada brings together about 80 traders on two floors: fishmongers, butchers, greengrocers and counters where you can eat on the spot. It opens Monday to Friday from 9am to 2pm and 5:30pm to 8:30pm, Saturday from 9am to 6pm, and on the first Sunday of the month from 11am to 5pm.

Infos pratiques

Tips

On Sundays, get to the Rastro early (9am to 3pm, Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores), then walk up to Cava Baja and Plaza de la Paja around midday for vermouth. The bars are packed on Sundays between 1pm and 4pm: expect to stand at the counter, which is the custom. On the first Sunday of the month, the Cebada market is open too. To dine at the best-known restaurants on Cava Baja, book ahead.