Choosing your tasting

Reading the ham label

Iberian bellota ham is the top of the range; "cebo" comes from animals fed on grain. A hand-sliced portion is eaten in a few minutes: ask for the "cortador" if the bar uses one. Good ham shows a rosy colour and glossy fat. To compare markets, see San Miguel or San Antón and Madrid's markets.

Guided tour or on your own?

A guided tour strings several bars together in a few hours with no searching. To eat on your own, the list of tapas in Madrid gives classic addresses, and wine and tapas: which offer compares the formulas. Cooking classes are in food tours and cooking classes. A guided tapas crawl is a good choice for a first evening.