New Year's Eve in Madrid: the twelve grapes at the Puerta del Sol

In Madrid, 31 December revolves around one precise gesture: eating a grape at each of the twelve strokes of midnight, the *campanadas*. Many Madrileños do it at home in front of the television; others head to the Puerta del Sol, where the clock of the Casa de Correos gives the reference time. This guide explains the tradition, what to know before going to the square, and suggests more comfortable options. No official information on the 2026-2027 celebration had been published when this was written (October 2026): the access arrangements change from year to year, so check them in late December.

The tradition of the twelve grapes

You eat twelve grapes, one per stroke of the bell, during the last twelve seconds of the year, to secure twelve months of luck. The strokes are preceded by four shorter chimes, the cuartos, which act as a signal to get ready. It is harder than it looks: the rhythm is fast, which is why people choose seedless grapes, sold in trays or bags in supermarkets before New Year's Eve.

The custom is shared across Spain; the broadcast from the Puerta del Sol on national television has made it the reference event. Wearing something red, especially underwear, is a common and lighter superstition: nobody will ask you to prove it.

Puerta del Sol: what the night is like

The Puerta del Sol fills up during the evening. People wait standing, sometimes for several hours, in temperatures that often fall close to zero in December. The square has a great atmosphere but little comfort: few public toilets, a dense crowd and crowd movements on the way out.

The Casa de Correos and its clock, on the Puerta del Sol

In recent years the city council has set up controlled access with limited capacity, bag checks and a list of banned items, including glass bottles and fireworks. The exact rules (opening times of the access points, closed streets, permitted items) are published by the city a few days beforehand. Keep these principles in mind:

Arrive early if you want to be on the square; once the perimeter is full, entry is closed.
Do not count on going in, then out, then back in.
Avoid coming with a pushchair, large bags or very young children.
Agree a meeting point away from the crowd, as the mobile network is often saturated.

Calmer alternatives

If the crowd does not appeal, other options exist: - At home or at the hotel: follow the campanadas on television with your twelve grapes, like most Madrileños. - New Year's Eve dinner: restaurants offer a set menu, to be booked well in advance. Ask for the final price, the seating time and whether the grapes and the midnight drink are included. - Parties and clubs: the night carries on until morning in the lively districts (see Madrid by night). Entry tickets are sold in advance; do not buy one from a stranger. - Other squares: many districts organise their own events; check the city's programme before travelling.

Getting around on the evening of 31 December

Transport works differently that night. Metro and buses run on night-adapted schedules, and stations near the square may be closed depending on the security arrangements. Check the timetables published by the Consorcio de Transportes and by Metro de Madrid a few days beforehand, as well as our guide to getting around Madrid. To get back after midnight, taxi and ride-hailing queues are long and prices can rise; see getting home at night in Madrid and safety at night.

1 January

1 January is a public holiday in Spain: most shops, banks and many museums are closed or open late (see public holidays in Madrid). Many locals sleep in. Plan something undemanding in the early afternoon: a walk in Retiro Park or a hot chocolate with churros, a classic after the party.