Buitrago at a glance
- Where? Sierra Norte, Community of Madrid, on the Lozoya River.
- From Madrid: about 45 min to 1 h by car on the A-1 (74–75 km); about 1 h 40 by bus 191 from the Plaza de Castilla interchange.
- Time on site: 2 to 3 hours for the essentials, half a day to a full day with lunch and a walk.
- Best for: a car-free day out, fans of walls, photography and quiet.
How to get there
By bus: interurban line 191 leaves from the Intercambiador de Plaza de Castilla (Madrid) and serves Buitrago in about 1 h 40, according to Madrid's tourist office. Frequencies are limited, especially at weekends: check the Consorcio Regional de Transportes timetable (crtm.es) before leaving, note the last return and aim for the one before.
By car: A-1 north, about 45 minutes to an hour. There is parking near the walls. To combine several stops, you can rent a car.
What to see
The walls. Of Arab origin, they surround the historic centre and are said to be the only complete town wall in the Community of Madrid. You enter through the Clock Tower. The lower wall (muralla baja) is free to visit at any time, together with the medieval garden; the wall walk (muralla alta) requires a ticket.
- Wall walk price: €5 (€4 reduced, free under 10).
- Hours: Tuesday–Friday 11:30 am–1:45 pm and 4:15–5:45 pm; Saturday 11:30 am–1:45 pm and 4:30–6:45 pm; Sunday and holidays 11:30 am–1:45 pm. Closed Mondays; access closes 15 minutes earlier.
The church of Santa María del Castillo. A Gothic building of the 14th and 15th centuries with a Mudéjar bell tower, near the wall-walk entrance.
The Mendoza castle. A 15th-century fortress with seven towers; it is currently closed and can be seen from outside only.
The coracha and the river. The coracha is a defensive wall running down to the Lozoya to protect access to the water. The best views of the whole complex are from the opposite bank, by the Puente del Arrabal (said to date from the 15th century).
The Picasso Museum – Eugenio Arias Collection
Eugenio Arias, born in Buitrago, was Picasso's barber in exile in France. The painter gave him more than sixty works (ceramics, lithographs, posters, drawings), displayed in the basement of the town hall at Plaza de Picasso 1. Admission is free.
| Day | Hours |
|---|---|
| Tuesday to Friday | 11 am – 1:45 pm and 4 – 6 pm |
| Saturday | 10 am – 2 pm and 4 – 7 pm |
| Sunday and holidays | 10 am – 2 pm |
| Monday | Closed |
The museum also closes on 1 and 6 January, 15 August and 24, 25 and 31 December, and during the local festivals in August and September. Telephone: 918 68 00 56.
Lunch and a walk
Expect Castilian mountain cooking: grilled meats, stews, local beans, mushrooms in autumn, homemade desserts. There are tables inside the walls and near the entrance; book at weekends. After lunch, follow the Lozoya: it is the most pleasant part of the visit and stays open even when the monuments are closed.
Planning the day without a car
- Bus 191 in the morning from Plaza de Castilla, arriving around 10:30 am.
- Lower wall, church and Picasso museum before 2 pm (the museum closes in the morning at 1:45 pm on weekdays and 2 pm at weekends).
- Lunch, then the wall walk and a stroll by the water.
- Return on the last bus you have checked, leaving a margin.
In bad weather the Picasso museum and the restaurants offer shelter; in winter the afternoons are short.
Going further
Combine Buitrago with the Hayedo de Montejo or Patones de Arriba if you have a car; without one, do not add stops. For another historic village, by car, read Pedraza from Madrid. For nature, prepare with the Sierra de Guadarrama, and for more ideas see day trips from Madrid.
